Kerbed alloys are practically local currency. The entrances along the A23 are tight, the bays are narrow, and a good half of the cars parked around South End carry a bright scar on at least one rim. What gets overlooked is that the tyre was the thing sandwiched between the wheel and the concrete when it happened. Plenty of scraped rims sit above perfectly sound tyres. But a hard enough strike pinches the sidewall between metal and stone, and the cords inside give way silently, doing nothing at all until the day they part. Telling those two apart is the entire job, and being believed when the answer is that your tyre is fine matters as much as being right when it is not.
Big alloys and low-profile tyres look good and break easily. We check both when we come out to Waddon or wherever the car is standing: the tyre for cuts, splits and bulges, and the alloy for damage, before anything goes back on. An Addiscombe cul-de-sac or a South End main road, tell us which. A tight terrace in South End or a narrow bay on Lower Addiscombe Road is usually workable. CR0 takes in Waddon and Broad Green, and we work the lot.
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The surface around the busier junctions here takes a hammering and repairs get patched rather than replaced, so potholes reopen in the same places every winter. If you use the A232 daily, a two minute look at your sidewalls once a month is a reasonable habit, and it costs nothing but the two minutes.
Run your hand round the sidewall rather than trusting your eyes, because a small one is easier to feel than to see. Anything that stands proud of the surrounding surface is a broken cord and the tyre is finished, however much tread is left on it.
Glass and dropped metal do this, and depth is what matters rather than length. If the cut stops in the rubber the tyre carries on. If it reaches the belt underneath, water gets in, the steel rusts and the tread will eventually part company with the casing.
A tyre worn out on its inner shoulder while the rest looks healthy is telling you about the car, not the tyre. Replacing it without addressing the geometry buys you the same problem again. We will point at the pattern and let you decide what to do about it.
Bad. Size tells you nothing about how close it is to failing, because the cords are already broken either way. It is one of the few things we will tell you flatly not to drive on.
Almost always the car's. Alignment, worn suspension bushes or a bent component after a pothole. New rubber will not correct any of them.
Yes, and you should. Most cars have one tyre in obviously worse condition than the rest, and knowing which is which lets you plan the spend instead of being ambushed.
1.6mm, and it is measured across the central three quarters of the tread rather than at whichever spot looks healthiest. Below that the car fails its test and you are liable. Most people replace before that point, because grip in the wet falls away well above the legal figure.
Look at the sidewalls the next day and check the pressures a few days later. Impact damage is often invisible for a while and then very obvious, and the gap between those two states is where people get caught out.
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