Six millimetres across most of the tread and under two on the outer shoulder is not a worn tyre. It is a tyre being eaten by something else, and replacing it without finding out what will produce exactly the same thing again in a few thousand miles. The shape of the wear tells you which fault you have. One shoulder scrubbed down toward the belt while the inner half still looks nearly new points at alignment, and gradient brings it out sooner than flat roads do.
The roads here do not help. Climbing and dropping between the Ridgeway and the Broadway loads the outside edges of the front tyres through corner after corner, and a car a fraction out of alignment shows it on one edge long before a tread depth gauge suggests anything is wrong. So a tyre that has gone bald in one strip gets read across its whole width first, and compared with the same corner on the other side of the car. Both fronts worn identically at the same edge is a geometry answer. One tyre doing it alone is usually a kerb strike or a bent component behind it.
Big alloys and low-profile tyres look good and break easily. We check both when we come out to The Ridgeway or wherever the car is standing: the tyre for cuts, splits and bulges, and the alloy for damage, before anything goes back on. The Hale, Arrandene and every turning off the M1 are one round for us. Steep camber in The Hale? We move a few metres, Arrandene or anywhere else. Blocked drive in The Ridgeway? Open kerb in The Hale? Either works.
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Between the M1 at Junction 2 and the lanes up around Mill Hill Village, cars here spend their time either sitting at speed on a dual carriageway or working hard through gradient and bends, and both punish a tyre that is not running flat on the road. That is why a one edged wear pattern deserves a proper look rather than a straight swap. We read the tread across its full width before anything gets quoted.
A car in NW7 passed the usual thumb test because the centre of the tread was healthy. The outer shoulder had worn through to the belt over a band about two fingers wide. That corner was replaced, and the owner sent for alignment before the new one had the chance to go the same way.
Running a hand across the tread in one direction felt smooth and in the other felt like a saw blade. That is toe wear, where each tread block is worn into a ramp. It is worth checking both front tyres by hand whenever one edge starts disappearing faster than the rest.
This tyre looked perfectly fine from outside the car, because the damage was on the inner shoulder facing the middle of the vehicle. Nobody sees that edge without turning the wheel to full lock or lifting the corner. It was down to cords in places on a car whose owner suspected nothing.
Almost certainly not. The requirement is at least 1.6mm across the central three quarters of the tread and right round the circumference, and a scrubbed shoulder usually eats into that band before anyone notices. A healthy looking middle is not the test being applied.
No, that wants a ramp and alignment equipment, so it stays a garage job. What we can do is confirm it is needed and describe exactly what the tread showed, so you walk in knowing which corner and which direction rather than paying for a check that finds nothing.
You could, and it will wear out the same way. The reason for reading the pattern is to spend the money once. Where the cause is a pothole knock or a kerb strike, the new tyre is a wasted one until the geometry behind it is put right.
Usually the simpler outcome of the two. Matching wear on both sides points at a settings issue rather than damage to a component, and settings adjust readily. It is one tyre wearing oddly on its own that tends to mean something is bent.
The common fitments ride on the van, and heavier cars get the correct load index and speed rating rather than whatever happens to be nearest. Where a size is not aboard, it gets brought out the same day instead of you being sent off to find it yourself.
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