Getting a stubborn nut off requires leaning on a long bar, and leaning on a long bar requires the car to be planted. That is a real consideration on the climb up Richmond Hill and on the streets running off it, where a fair number of cars live on a noticeable gradient. A car on a slope with a wheel about to come off is not a car to be applying sideways force to, and a jack on a camber is worse still.
So the order of work matters. The nut gets cracked loose with all four wheels on the ground and the car chocked, and only then does anything come up on a jack. If the slope is severe enough the fitter will ask you to move the car a short distance to somewhere flatter, which is thirty seconds well spent. Once it is stable the extraction socket goes onto the body of the nut, it winds out without touching the alloy, and a plain nut goes back on to the manufacturer's torque figure so the next removal is ordinary.
A used car with no locking key is more common than the trade admits. If it has already gone, we can come out to Kew or wherever the car is parked, extract the nuts with the right tools and fit a standard or replacement set so the car is straightforward from then on. Pressures set before we leave Kew, and the same on Lower Mortlake Road. A North Sheen driveway is our workshop, and so is a Petersham kerb.
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The streets climbing away from George Street and up Richmond Hill are not the place to be forcing a wheel nut with a car balanced on a jack. Cracking it loose with the car on the ground, chocked and level, is what makes the difference. The gear comes to wherever the car is parked in TW9 or TW10, and the wheel is left so an ordinary socket will shift it.
A car on a steep street off Richmond Hill had a nut needing serious force. It was broken loose with all four wheels down and chocked, then lifted.
A slope near Petersham was too pronounced to work on safely. Rolling the car to a flat stretch cost half a minute and made the rest routine.
A driver in North Sheen had a key whose pattern had rounded off completely. Extraction bites the outside of the nut, so the state of the key was irrelevant.
Because loosening a tight fastener puts a sideways load into the car, and you want that going into four tyres on the road rather than into a jack.
On a steep street, possibly. A flatter spot a short distance away makes the job safer and no slower, and it is only ever a few yards.
Always, and more carefully on a gradient. It is basic and it is the part people skip when they try this themselves at the kerb.
The socket is centred by the nut and grips the nut, so it does not bear on the wheel face at any point.
Yes, and the car keeps its space throughout. The work happens alongside it and takes well under an hour.
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