Key takeaways
- Stop on firm, level ground away from traffic, apply the handbrake, put the car in gear and switch on hazard lights before you start.
- Loosen the wheel nuts before you jack the car up, then raise it, remove the nuts, swap the wheel and lower it back down.
- Never put any part of your body under a car supported only by a jack.
- On a motorway or hard shoulder, do not change the wheel yourself — get behind the barrier and call for help.
Changing a tyre is well within most drivers' reach if you work in the right order and put safety first. The key is preparation: a safe place to stop, the correct equipment, and the discipline never to rush. This guide walks through it step by step, and explains the one situation where you should not attempt it at all.
Before you start: is it safe to change the tyre here?
Only change a tyre on firm, level ground, well away from moving traffic, with no slope or soft surface that could let the car shift off the jack. If you are on a motorway, a hard shoulder, a fast road or anywhere you cannot work clear of traffic, do not attempt it. Get to safety and call for help instead.
Check, too, that you actually have what you need: a roadworthy spare or space-saver, the jack, a wheel brace, the locking wheel nut key if fitted, and ideally a warning triangle and a torch. If anything is missing, calling out is the safer choice.
Think about the conditions as well as the location. Heavy rain, darkness, ice or strong wind all make a roadside change harder and more hazardous, and a wet or frozen surface can let the jack slip. If you are at all unsure that the car will sit safely on the jack, do not start — the few minutes you might save are never worth the risk.
What you need to change a tyre
You need a small, specific kit, and it is worth confirming you have all of it before you set off on any journey. Missing the locking wheel nut key is one of the most common reasons a roadside change fails. Lay everything out before you begin so nothing is forgotten mid-job.
- A serviceable spare wheel or space-saver, correctly inflated.
- The vehicle jack and wheel brace (in the boot or under the floor).
- The locking wheel nut key, if your car has locking nuts.
- A warning triangle, hi-vis vest, gloves and a torch.
- The handbook, to find the correct jacking points.
Step-by-step: how to change a tyre
Work in this order, calmly and without rushing. The crucial rule is to loosen the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground, and to lift the car only enough to swap the wheel. Never get under the vehicle while it is on the jack — a jack is for lifting, not for supporting you.
- Prepare. Handbrake on, car in first gear or Park, hazard lights on, everyone out and clear. Place the warning triangle if it is safe.
- Loosen the nuts. With the wheel still on the ground, turn each nut anticlockwise about half a turn. Do not remove them yet.
- Position the jack. Find the correct jacking point in your handbook and raise the car until the flat tyre is just clear of the ground.
- Remove the wheel. Fully undo the nuts, keep them safe, and lift the wheel off. Keep your body clear of the car.
- Fit the spare. Line up the holes, push it on, and hand-tighten the nuts in a diagonal (star) pattern.
- Lower the car. Wind the jack down until the tyre touches, then fully tighten the nuts in the same diagonal order.
- Finish. Lower fully, stow the old wheel and tools, and check the spare's pressure as soon as you can.
After the change: driving on a space-saver
If your spare is a space-saver (a narrow temporary wheel), it is for short-term use only. Most space-savers are limited to around 50mph and a limited distance, so drive gently, avoid motorways where possible, and get the proper tyre repaired or replaced as soon as you can. A full-size spare can be used normally but should still be checked.
| Spare type | Speed limit | How long to use |
|---|---|---|
| Space-saver | Usually about 50mph | Temporary — replace soon |
| Full-size spare | Normal limits | Until you can have it checked |
| No spare | N/A | Use a repair kit or call out |
The differences matter, and our guide to the spare tyre versus space-saver explains them in full. If you have no spare at all, read what to do without a spare.
When you should not change a tyre yourself
Do not change a tyre on a motorway, a hard shoulder, a fast dual carriageway, or anywhere you cannot work safely clear of traffic. National Highways advises drivers who break down on a motorway to get out via the left-hand door, stand behind the safety barrier, and call for help — never attempt repairs near live lanes.
The same applies in poor light, on a steep or soft surface, or if you are not confident the car is stable. There is no shame in calling for help; a tyre is replaceable and you are not. If in doubt, get to safety and let a professional come to you.
After fitting the spare: what to check
A spare is only useful if it is in good order, so make a habit of checking yours when you check the others. Confirm it holds its pressure, has legal tread and is not cracked with age, because a spare that has sat untouched for years can perish even with plenty of tread left. A flat or perished spare is no help at all in an emergency.
Once you have fitted it, get the original tyre repaired or replaced promptly rather than leaving the spare on indefinitely. Have the wheel nuts checked for correct torque at the first opportunity, and if you used a space-saver, remember it is a stopgap, not a long-term solution. Returning the car to four matching, full tyres restores its proper handling and braking.
Rather not do it yourself?
If the location is unsafe, you have no spare, or you would simply rather not, Fast Tyre will come to you 24/7 across London and central England. Our emergency callout team typically arrives within 30–60 minutes and changes or replaces the tyre on the spot, so you stay clear of traffic and back on the road quickly.
Frequently asked questions
Before. Loosen each nut about half a turn while the wheel is still on the ground, otherwise the wheel spins as you try to undo them. Once the nuts are loose, jack the car up, then remove the nuts fully and swap the wheel.
No. The hard shoulder is one of the most dangerous places on the road. National Highways advises getting out of the left-hand door, standing behind the safety barrier and calling for help. Never attempt a wheel change near live motorway lanes.
Tighten them firmly in a diagonal star pattern once the car is back on the ground, but avoid over-tightening with body weight on the brace. Ideally have them torqued to the manufacturer's setting at the first opportunity, which a fitter can do for you.
No. Space-savers are temporary: typically limited to around 50mph and a restricted distance. Drive gently, avoid motorways where you can, and have the proper tyre repaired or replaced as soon as possible. A full-size spare can be used more normally but should still be checked.
You will not be able to remove the wheel with standard tools, so a roadside change is not possible. Keep the key in the car at all times. If it is lost, a fitter or specialist can remove locking nuts, so calling for help is the practical option.
For a confident driver with the right kit on safe ground, around 15 to 30 minutes. It takes longer in the dark, in bad weather or if nuts are seized. Never rush the job — working safely matters far more than saving a few minutes.