Most ruined locking nuts were ruined by an air gun. A rattle gun run at full pressure onto a locking key hammers the splines flat in a couple of seconds, and it also does the nut up far tighter than the manufacturer ever intended. The car leaves the bay fine. The problem only shows up months later, on a wet evening, when the key will not bite and the wheel will not come off.
We do this the slow way. Nuts come off with a torque wrench and go back on to the figure the manufacturer specified, which is a number, not an opinion. Where a key has already been chewed by somebody else's gun, we extract the nut with proper tooling instead, guarding the alloy face while it turns out. You can then have a plain nut fitted in its place or a fresh locking set with new keys. Either way the wheel comes off and the tyre job carries on.
People worry about the alloy, and they are right to. A locking nut sits recessed, so anything that slips inside that recess marks the face of the wheel, and a badly extracted nut can take a chunk out of the rim. That is a tool problem rather than a skill problem, which is why we carry kits sized for it. The extraction happens where the car is parked in North Acton, slowly and with the wheel protected, and the alloy comes through it intact. Driveways, work car parks and the roadside are all ordinary ground for this.

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The moment a locking nut becomes your problem is the moment you have a flat tyre and a car you cannot lift, and in W3 that usually means a permit street with traffic squeezing past you on both sides. Getting it out at your address rather than at the roadside on Horn Lane is a much calmer job. We bring the extraction tooling as standard, and the nuts that go back on are torqued rather than hammered.
A car near Acton Central had a key with no pattern left on it. The nut was extracted, the wheel came off, and a standard nut went back in.
Four nuts on a North Acton car had been run up far past spec. They came off carefully and went back on to the correct torque.
A driver in East Acton had a flat and no locking key anywhere in the car. Removal, tyre change and a replacement nut, all in one visit.
Almost always an air gun has rounded the splines off. The key is softer than the nut, so it wears first, and once the pattern is gone it simply spins in place.
Not for final tightening. Nuts are torqued with a wrench to the manufacturer's figure, which is what stops the next person having this same conversation.
Yes. The extraction socket bites the outside of the nut and turns it out. It takes longer than a normal wheel change but it is entirely routine.
We shield the wheel face and work on the nut itself. In a tight permit bay off the Uxbridge Road there is not much room, so care matters more than speed.
Yes, and most people choose to. If you would rather keep the wheels locked we can fit a new set with keys that actually work.
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