A gouge across the face of an alloy wheel costs more to put right than most tyre work, and a fair number of them are made by the owner of the car in the ten minutes before they give up and ring somebody. The mechanism is always the same. The locking key is not sitting fully home in the nut, the brace is long, and the driver leans on it hard because the nut will not shift. The key jumps out under load and the bar comes down across the wheel.
Everything about that is predictable, which is why it is worth saying before it happens rather than after. A key that is not seated is a key that will slip, and you can rarely feel the difference between seated and nearly seated with a brace on the end of it. Add corrosion between the nut and the stud and the force needed climbs until something has to give. On a stubborn nut, the wheel is protected first, the extractor is driven on squarely and the load is applied in line rather than at an angle. The nut is what we are trying to destroy. The wheel is not.
A lost locking wheel nut key is a small problem with a large consequence. The tyre may only need a repair, but if the wheel will not come off the car is going nowhere, and that is a genuinely bad position on M11 link road. The wheel comes off in Wallwood, not on a ramp in Wanstead. Nothing is towed out of Green Man or Bushwood; the work finishes there. The E11 postcode and a street in Whipps Cross: that is enough.

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Wheels get kerbed on the tight parking either side of Whipps Cross Road, and an alloy that already carries a scuff does not need a brace mark across it as well. Most of the locking nut calls taken around E11 come from drivers who tried once, felt the key slip and stopped. That is the right instinct, and it usually saves the wheel.
A driver near Bushwood found the key would turn but not bite, and stopped there. The nut was corroded onto the stud rather than rounded. Penetrating fluid, a squarely driven extractor and steady load had it off with the alloy face unmarked.
The wheel on a car by Whipps Cross had a pair of bright scars across the spokes from an earlier attempt. The nut itself was still round enough to grip. It came away cleanly, though the wheel needed a refurbisher for damage that had nothing to do with the nut.
A car parked up near Wallwood for a long stretch had a rear nut seized to the point where the key simply spun. Fluid, patience and a hardened socket cutting into fresh metal took it off, and a plain nut went back to the correct torque figure.
That is the normal outcome. The extractor grips the nut's own outer surface and the face of the alloy is shielded while it turns. Marks on a wheel almost always predate the call, which is a good reason to ring before reaching for a longer bar.
It is a different job rather than a harder one. A rounded nut has lost the splines the key needs, so the extractor cuts its own grip into the outside instead. What makes any of them awkward is corrosion underneath, not the state of the splines.
To the figure in the handbook and no tighter. Most of the seized and rounded nuts we meet were done up by machine well past that, which is also what makes them impossible to shift with the key that came in the glovebox.
You can, and plenty of drivers do once they have had one fail. A new locking set goes on with the same care as anything else, or plain nuts can go on instead if you would rather not carry a key around at all.
If there is a puncture or a tyre to change behind it, that is dealt with in the same visit rather than booked separately. The nut is nearly always in the way of something else rather than a problem in its own right.
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