Not every car has wheel nuts. Plenty use bolts instead, threading straight through the wheel into the hub, and that changes the job more than it sounds as though it should. With studs, the wheel hangs on them while the work goes on. With bolts, the moment the last one is out there is nothing holding the wheel to the car at all beyond its own weight against the hub face.
So the order of work matters more here. The locking bolt gets dealt with while the others are still in and holding everything where it should be, not left until last when nothing is left to support the wheel. Extraction on a bolt is less forgiving too, because a bolt that shears leaves its thread buried in the hub rather than a stud sticking out that somebody can get hold of. It is slower work and it ought to be. Once the locking bolt is out, a plain bolt of the correct length and taper goes in, and the length matters every bit as much as the thread.
A lost locking wheel nut key is a small problem with a large consequence. The tyre may only need a repair, but if the wheel will not come off the car is going nowhere, and that is a genuinely bad position on the M40 near junction 4. Old tyres leave Higginson Park, Munday Dean and Buckinghamshire with us, every time. You watch it happen in Munday Dean, or at the kerb in Pound Lane.
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A locking key that has gone missing or given up tends to be discovered at the worst possible moment, usually on a verge somewhere off the A4155 with a flat tyre already in play. The extraction gear is standard kit here rather than something to be fetched from elsewhere, so the wheel comes off during the same visit and the day only gets interrupted the once.
A car in Marlow Bottom had one locking bolt with its pattern chewed away to nothing. The other three stayed in place while it was extracted, so the wheel stayed supported the whole time and never hung on a single fastener at any stage.
A bolt that is too short holds on too few threads, and one that is too long bottoms out in the hub before it clamps anything at all. The replacement is matched to what came out rather than to whatever happens to fit, then torqued to the car's own figure.
Corrosion between a steel bolt and an alloy wheel grips harder than most people would imagine. This one near Dean Street wanted penetrating fluid and patience rather than a longer bar, because a snapped bolt buried in a hub is a workshop job and not a roadside one.
Yes. The tools cover both and the principle is the same. The difference is that the wheel has nothing to hang on once a bolt is out, so it gets supported before that point rather than after.
A single plain bolt matched for length, thread and taper is usually all that is wanted. A fresh locking set with working keys is available if you would rather keep the security, and that is entirely your call.
There is if the tool is allowed to touch anything except the bolt head. The socket seats fully and squarely, and the alloy around it is protected, which is what keeps the face unmarked afterwards.
Nearly always a power gun. A pattern that fine gets flattened within seconds under an impact wrench, and the bolt ends up far tighter than the manufacturer intended at the same time.
It is part of the tyre job. Nothing else can happen until the wheel is off, so the extraction goes first and then the puncture or the replacement carries on as it would have done anyway.
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