A repair is not finished when the hole is sealed. A patch is a piece of rubber bonded to the inside of the casing, it weighs something, and where it sits is nowhere near the balance weights already stuck to the rim to counter the wheel as it was before. Put that wheel back on without spinning it and the car will not feel right at speed even though the puncture is genuinely fixed.
It works in both directions too. Getting the tyre off the rim disturbs weights that were bonded on, and pulling a nail out of the tread takes a little mass away at the same moment the patch adds some in a different place. All of that moves where the mass sits relative to the centre of the wheel. So the wheel goes on the balancer after the repair, the old weights come off and it is re-weighted for the state it is in now. That step is what decides whether the steering stays quiet on a fast dual carriageway or hums at you the whole way.
An emergency repair should end with a legal car, not a temporary one. We do that at the car in Munday Dean, fit a proper internal plug-patch to British Standard where it qualifies, rebalance and set the pressure. The Dean Street phone and the Higginson Park phone ring the same fitter, any hour. Midnight in Higginson Park, midday in Munday Dean, the same call either way.

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Drivers here do two very different sorts of mile, tight parked streets in the centre and fast running out towards the M40 (J4). A repair that feels perfect at walking pace and then hums on the dual carriageway has not been finished properly, which is why the wheel gets spun and re-weighted before the car is handed back.
An unbalanced wheel behaves itself at low speed and only declares itself once the car is up to pace on a dual carriageway. A repair done without rebalancing afterwards is the usual reason, which is why the balancer travels with the fitter instead of living in a workshop.
A puncture picked up near Higginson Park came out of the central tread and took a combined plug and patch. The wheel then went on the balancer, the old weights were stripped off and new ones went on where the wheel now wanted them, before it went back on the hub.
The final step is the nuts, done with a torque wrench to the figure for that car and in the right order across the hub. Even clamping keeps the wheel sitting square against the face, and that matters to how the car feels every bit as much as the balancing does.
After both. Any time a tyre comes off the rim, the weights already on it no longer describe that wheel accurately, and a patch bonded inside has added mass somewhere new.
Yes. The balancer is part of the kit that comes out, so a repair done on a driveway or in a car park is finished to exactly the same point as one done under a roof.
Because the out-of-balance force grows sharply with rotational speed. A small error is imperceptible around town and turns into a steady vibration through the steering once the car is running properly.
Not to standard. The rules exist because the only way to be sure the casing is sound is to look at it from the inside, with the tyre dismounted and a proper repair bonded in place.
Longer than shoving a plug in from outside, and that is rather the point. Removal, inspection, preparing the liner, fitting the repair, rebalancing and torquing all happen, and none of them is worth skipping.
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