The expensive part of a locking nut job is never the nut. It is the sheared stud, which means a hub, a press and a car going nowhere until it is done. Studs shear because they were stretched long before anyone tried to undo them, wound up by an air gun set to whatever the workshop line was running that morning, then left through a few winters of salt. A locking nut takes it worse than a plain one: the gun rolls the splines flat while it is at it, and nobody notices until the wheel has to come off.
Getting it off is only half the job. Everything we undo goes back on with a torque wrench, set to the figure published for that car in newton metres. There is no version of that number which depends on how strong the fitter is or how confident he feels. Nuts go on dry, in a star pattern, in stages, and every one is checked a second time. On a slope the car is chocked and the ground checked before the jack goes anywhere near it, because torque is not the only thing on a hill with a right answer.
People worry about the alloy, and they are right to. A locking nut sits recessed, so anything that slips inside that recess marks the face of the wheel, and a badly extracted nut can take a chunk out of the rim. The extraction happens where the car is parked in Sydenham, slowly and with the wheel protected, and the alloy comes through it intact. Whether it is Crystal Palace in rush hour or the South Circular at midnight, we answer. On the South Circular, day or night, Crystal Palace included, arrival across SE26 runs 30 to 60 minutes. A SE26 address in Forest Hill and one in Sydenham are the same round.
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Sydenham is not flat and it does not pretend to be. Kirkdale pulls upward toward Crystal Palace and the streets on the far side drop away just as sharply. Working on a wheel here starts with choosing the spot rather than with the jack, and half the cars are parked at an angle you can feel through your feet. Somebody who does this daily treats that as part of the job, not an afterthought.
The key dropped onto the nut and turned without ever taking hold, because the splines had been rolled flat by a gun years before. An extraction socket gripped the outside of the nut and the wheel was off within minutes.
A car sitting nose down on a steep street with one nut to remove. Chocks went behind the wheels staying on the ground, the jack went on the flattest solid spot available, and nothing was raised until both of those were right.
Four nuts done up so hard that the owner's brace bent before any of them moved. They came off cold on a long bar and went back at the manufacturer's figure, which is a good deal less than the gun had put through them.
It is a figure published for your particular car, not a general rule, and it changes with stud size and wheel type. We look it up rather than going by feel, and the wrench is set before anything gets tightened.
Very unlikely, because the work is done cold and slowly. Heat and impact are what break studs. If one looks suspect, corroded and thin at the base, you hear about it before serious force goes on, so it stays your decision.
Only with care, and often we move it a few metres first. Chocks go on the wheels staying down, the handbrake goes on, and the jack sits on solid ground rather than a sloping gutter. A car that slides off a jack downhill does not stop.
There is no need, though no harm in it either. If you do, work cold, on flat ground, and stop the moment the wrench clicks instead of pulling for luck. Over-tightening is how most of these problems begin in the first place.
No. The tools work off the outside of the nut, so a lost key, a snapped one and a rounded one all end the same way. Hand it over if you still have it, since an undamaged key is quicker, but nothing hangs on it.
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