Where exactly were you planning to change that wheel? It is a fair question in SE10, and it is worth answering before the locking nut is even discussed. The lanes climbing towards Maze Hill are narrow and on a slope. The town centre has setts underfoot that a jack does not sit flat on. Trafalgar Road carries buses and cannot be blocked. So the spare in the boot is a lot less useful here than it sounds, and a seized nut on that wheel removes even the pretence of a backup.
That is the honest shape of this job. It is not usually an emergency. It is the thing standing between you and every other bit of work the car needs: the MOT that cannot be finished, the new tyre that cannot be fitted, the spare that cannot go on. Lost keys, patterns rounded off by an impact gun and nuts corroded onto studs are the three causes we see, and all three come off with extraction tools, cold, without marking the alloy. A plain nut goes on afterwards so nothing is stuck a second time.
A lost locking wheel nut key is a small problem with a large consequence. The tyre may only need a repair, but if the wheel will not come off the car is going nowhere, and that is a genuinely bad position on Blackwall Lane. The Maze Hill phone and the Blackheath phone ring the same fitter, any hour. Midnight in Blackheath, midday in Westcombe Park, the same call either way. A SE10 address in Blackheath and one in Westcombe Park are the same round.
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We cover SE10 and SE3, from the streets behind Greenwich High Road across to Westcombe Park and up towards Blackheath. Everything happens beside the car, so nothing is driven through the one-way system or into a tunnel queue to get it done.
A car bought through a dealer in Lewisham arrived without the little key tube, which nobody noticed for eight months. A tyre going soft brought it to light. We cleared the nut on the street and the tyre was changed the same visit.
The key would go on and turn without effect because the pattern had been chewed flat by an air gun. We took hold of the collar underneath, eased the nut off, and made sure the thread beneath had survived before a replacement went on.
A car standing all winter within reach of the river air had a nut bonded solidly to its stud. It came off with no flame near it and no drill bit involved, which is what a proper tool is for.
So long as nothing is losing pressure, yes, and there is little to gain from treating it as a crisis. The exception is a flat, because then something has to be unbolted immediately, and that we do day or night.
That is the order we would suggest anyway. We clear the nut, fit a normal one, and the test goes ahead without the car being off the road for another fortnight.
No. The extractor engages the nut itself and stays off the alloy face, which matters as much here as anywhere given what a set of wheels costs to refurbish.
It is a problem for anybody working with a scissor jack from a boot, which is partly why you are calling. We bring proper equipment, chock the car and level the lifting point before anything goes up.
Only if you want one. Ordinary nuts by default, wound up to the proper setting, so nothing exotic is needed to take that wheel off in future.
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